A yellow school bus rumbles through the pre-dawn darkness, navigating a maze of county roads deep in the rolling sandhills north of Wray. Inside, eager spectators anticipate a natural spectacle unlike any other.

The audience – about 20 people – disembarks and takes their seats on cushioned benches inside a metal trailer, a makeshift theater hidden within the prairie. A Colorado Parks and Wildlife (CPW) guide, acting as the master of ceremonies, lifts the collapsible shutters of the blind. Like a rising curtain, the unveiling reveals frost-covered grasses, barely visible in the first glimmers of daylight.

These aren’t tickets to Hamilton or a Taylor Swift concert, but to one of nature’s most curious performances: the annual mating dance of the greater prairie chicken.

The stage is a lek – a term from Swedish meaning “play.” The excitement among birdwatchers rivals that of devoted fans awaiting their favorite performer.

“People are enraptured,” said Wendy Figueroa, the CPW biologist overseeing the event. “They lean forward on the bench with their binoculars or spotting scope and stare. These guys put on a tremendous display.”

 

30 Years in the Making

This year marks the 30th anniversary of the Greater Prairie Chicken Tours, coordinated by CPW, the Wray Chamber of Commerce, and East Yuma County Historical Society. Each spring, birdwatchers from around the world flock to Wray for a chance to witness these captivating courtship dances.

The first sign of the birds’ presence is a low, resonant hum – like someone blowing across the top of a bottle. Known as “booming,” this sound guides observers’ eyes toward the silhouettes emerging in the prairie’s dim light. As the sun rises, cameras click, and muffled chuckles escape as spectators watch birds engage in their almost comical “funky chicken” dance. The golden morning light illuminates the performances, ensuring the prairie chickens steal the show.

Standing slightly taller than domestic chickens, greater prairie chickens belong to the grouse family. Their brown-and-white barred feathers provide camouflage, but the males boast a striking feature: vibrant orange air sacs on their throats. When they puff out these sacs and raise their feathery head tufts – called pinnae – they transform into flamboyant performers.

The dance is a dizzying display of wing spreading, head bobbing, and rapid foot stamping – an elaborate performance designed to impress potential mates and defend territory. Clucking, jumping, and wing flapping add to the show, evoking the energy of a martial arts master.

“CPW recorded a lek with around 80 males,” Figueroa said. “That’s a lot of testosterone in one place.”

 

Conservation Success

Today, greater prairie chickens are flourishing in northeastern Colorado, particularly in Yuma, Washington and Phillips counties. But their survival was far from certain.

Once numbering in the millions, the birds suffered drastic population declines due to habitat loss caused by the Dust Bowl, overgrazing, and agricultural expansion. By 1973, Colorado listed the species as endangered, with only 600 birds remaining.

Conservation efforts – including CPW’s partnerships with Eastern Plains landowners – helped restore the birds’ habitat. By 1993, the species was downgraded to threatened, and by 1998, it was removed from the endangered list entirely. Today, Figueroa estimates the state’s population at around 10,000, allowing for limited hunting.

The lesser prairie chicken, a smaller cousin found in southeastern Colorado, has not fared as well. Once common in Prowers, Cheyenne, and Baca counties, their numbers continue to decline due to habitat destruction and climate fluctuations. CPW is actively working with landowners to support their recovery.

At the Wray lek, the males perform undeterred, even without females present. The hens will arrive through April and early May, choosing mates before retreating into the prairie to nest in hidden grass depressions. They lay about a dozen eggs, which hatch after 23 days.

Chicks grow quickly, taking flight within two weeks, though they remain dependent on their mother for up to 10 weeks. Predators – including raptors – pose constant threats. While adult prairie chickens can outmaneuver aerial hunters, chicks rely on dense grass cover for protection.

As the two-hour viewing session ends, the birdwatchers board the bus and head to a ranch-style breakfast hosted by the Kitzmiller Grazing Association. At the nearby ranch headquarters, Pete Wilson, CEO of Wray State Bank and a longtime association member, fries farm-raised bacon for the guests.

Over steaming coffee, fluffy pancakes, and fresh eggs, Wilson explains the 15,000-acre conservation partnership between local families and CPW. Sustainable cattle grazing plays a key role in maintaining healthy prairie chicken habitat.

CPW biologists survey leks each spring, listening for booming calls along designated routes. Private landowners also invite wildlife managers to explore new areas, often leading to the discovery of previously unknown leks.

 

Finding Prairie Chickens

While guided tours offer the best viewing experience, dedicated birders can explore on their own. County Roads 45 and PP north of Wray, east of U.S. Highway 385, are good spots to listen for the birds at dawn in April and May. However, many leks are hidden behind hills or on private land, making sightings difficult without expert guidance.

Each visit to the northeast plains offers a different experience. Weather conditions and the number of birds at the lek vary, ensuring no two mornings are alike.

“I loved it,” said tour attendee Teresa Arrospide. “The first time I came, it was foggy – I could see them up close but not far away. So, I came again, and it was amazing. The sound they make gives you chills.”

Most visitors stay overnight to ensure they catch the early morning bus and have time to explore the area. While prairie chickens are the stars of the show, Yuma County is home to a diverse cast of wildlife, including burrowing owls, horned larks, northern bobwhites, and ring-necked pheasants. White-tailed deer are so numerous they frequently dart across Highway 385.

This spring, tours run each weekend through April 13, rain or shine. CPW and the Wray Museum host mandatory orientations the evening before each tour, providing an overview of the greater prairie chicken and observation guidelines. Breakfast at the Kitzmiller Grazing Association is always included.

“You don’t have to be a birder to appreciate their antics,” said Wray Museum Director Ardith Hendrix. “We’ve had visitors from middle schoolers to people in their 90s. It’s hard to put into words until you see it.”

Wray’s prairie chickens attract birders from across the country and beyond. Many maintain “life lists” of bird species they hope to see, and some return repeatedly to witness the lek’s seasonal magic.

“What I enjoyed most was learning how the community protects these birds,” said tour attendee Luming Zhou.

Though no longer endangered, the greater prairie chicken’s future depends on continued conservation efforts. For the people of Wray, education and appreciation are vital tools in protecting a species once on the brink of extinction. As long as these dancing birds perform their springtime ritual, and as long as admirers gather to watch, the greatest show on the prairie will go on.

 

Greater Prairie Chicken Tours can be booked at WrayChamber.net or by calling the Wray Chamber of Commerce at (970) 332-3484.